We had a great first trip to New Orleans. Weather from March 18th to 23rd could not have been more spectacular. Thanks to all who contribute to the board, giving great suggestions to posters and lurkers alike! Below is a recap of our (rather unorthodox) wanderings. For those of you who like to be able to feel your feet at the end of the day, remember there are alternatives to all the walking we did!)
Wednesday - I was flying in from New York and my husband was coming in from Dallas via Houston. The flights were meant to arrive within 5 minutes of each other. Best laid plans….heavy fog in Houston kept my husband grounded in Dallas for hours. My plane arrived uneventfully around 1:00 pm and I was at the Omni Royal Orleans by 2:00. Check in was quick, efficient and friendly, room was nice enough and balcony was fabulous. I wandered the streets of the FQ getting a feel for the town and periodic updates from stranded husband. He finally got to the hotel around 7:30 and we settled for a quick dinner across the street at Royal Oyster House – great oysters on the half shell - soup and sandwiches were less impressive.
Thursday – Walked the FQ from Canal to Frenchmen and Burgundy to Decatur. Enjoyed lunch at Coop’s (thanks for the great tip) and dinner at Muriel’s (thanks again). Too many stops to list, but I do want to give props to the micro brewed beer at Crescent City Brewery.
Friday – We are race trackers and wanted to go to the The Fairgrounds. When we found out the card didn’t start until late afternoon we decided to walk from the FQ along Esplanade – interesting trek –at times walking under elevated freeways and through Treme and at others passing mansions that rival those Uptown. We had a great lunch at Liuzza’s by the Track (great neighborhood joint where we enjoyed a delicious gumbo/half Po Boy combo with super frosty mugs of Abita Amber - yum). I highly recommend this spot if you are in the City Park area (note: according to our waitress during Jazz Fest they only serve drinks and gumbo to go). Still had time to kill before first post so we toured Cemetery #3 and walked a little way into City Park before heading back to the Fairgrounds to catch a few races. Afterward we returned to City Park to pick up the Streetcar down Canal. We must have walked 10 miles that day and were so beat we ended up ordering dinner from room service!
Saturday – After enjoying morning coffee on the balcony we rode the streetcar to the end of St. Charles St. Had a great brunch in the garden at Dante’s Kitchen (crab %26amp; brie omelet and poached eggs on debris). It’s a little off the beaten path (actually it’s across the street from Brigtsen’s) but worth seeking out. We then walked back down St. Charles until our feet gave out at Washington Street and hopped on a streetcar. By this time I realized we had gone beyond the best part of Magazine Street (next time). We got off the streetcar at Julia and took a quick turn around the Warehouse district before heading back along the river walk. As neither of us had tried Coop’s fried chicken at lunch, we headed back for dinner and then strolled through the quarter, catching snippets of music and ghost tours along the way.
Sunday – Decided to check out Bywater Barbeque for brunch. It’s an interesting walk through the Marginy and across the railroad tracks. Bywater is a great little area with good signs of recovery/gentrification. Had a nice brunch in the garden patio (priest from the Catholic Church up the block was at an adjacent table) and checked out a few area second had stores before heading back to the FQ. Then we went to a few open houses, had a beer at the Old Absinthe House and did a little shopping in the galleries. Wanted a last Oyster fix so ate a light dinner at the bar in Royal Oyster House and went back to (sob) pack.
Monday morning arrived too soon and after a last coffee overlooking St. Louis St. we were on our way back to NYC.
New Orleans may be moving to the top of the list of second home/retirement destinations I think I may be in danger of becoming a “never left.” Does anyone have suggestions of forums for information relating to relocation?
Thanks again for all you advice and apologies for the length!
Trip Report - March 18 -23
Great report, txs. You certainly burned off any extra calories you might have picked up, that%26#39;s for sure. My feet ache just from reading this. :-)
Glad you had a good time.
Trip Report - March 18 -23
Thanks for your report! You hit a lot of ';off the beaten path'; places that are popular among locals like Luizza%26#39;s and Dante%26#39;s Kitchen, so props!
Great trip report. When we got home we too thought our legs were going to fall off from walking so much!
Would you mind telling me about the poached eggs and debris? Is this the same gravy that they serve on the Roast Beef Po-boys? Do they serve this all over toast or something? I%26#39;m curious, we tried a roast beef po-boy when we were there, and I am going to try to make it this weekend. I found what looks to be a great recipe online.
Good retirement consideration. We haven%26#39;t thought of NO as a possibility.
Funcampin -
Debris and Poached Eggs were served on a buttermilk biscuit and topped with a demi-glace hollandaise. The ';debris'; is pulled pork (not in a BBQ sauce just nicely seasoned, most likely with a dry rub). This was my husband%26#39;s dish, but I had a bite of the pork and it was delicious.
Thanks Brenecke,
Sounds like sort of a Cajun style Eggs Benedict! I%26#39;ll have to keep that in the back of my mind as a new use for leftover pulled pork. We make it very often.
brenecke~your report made me happy too! and like you...i want to live there...NOW! i have been going for years and can never get enough. she gets in your heart and soul :)
thanks so much for the TR,this will be our third year in a row going to the FQ festival,would love to live in NOLA as well!!am planning on checking out this Bywater you speak of now,we havent hit that part of town yet,thanks again!
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